Inspired by Hong Kong: 3 of the city’s finest jewellery designers
Many luxury jewellers such as Bulgari – with its B. Zero 1 collection – Tiffany & Co. and Cartier already offer gender-fluid pieces. Cartier’s iconic Love bracelet was launched in 1969, with the maison sending some of the most famous couples of the time – the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, and Ali McGraw and Steve McQueen – a pair of bangles. With their own matching Love tokens, the Duke and Duchess of Sussex are one example of how the piece is still worn, and loved, by men and women today.
Meanwhile, Tiffany & Co. just launched its new Lock bracelet, touted as a “genderless icon”. The campaign for the collection launch included model Imaan Hammam and actor and professional skateboarder Tyshawn Jones. The tagline for the range, which draws on the blue-chip jeweller’s archives is, “No rules. All welcome.”Alexandre Arnault, who has been shaking things up at Tiffany & Co. since joining in 2021 as executive vice-president of product and communications, considers the Lock a new chapter for the brand. “Tiffany Lock is an elegant interpretation of an archival functional design. Defined by modern, clean lines and a breakthrough clasp mechanism, Tiffany Lock represents an exciting new pillar to our diamond and gold jewellery offering,” he said.
In the latest campaign for Chanel’s fine jewellery Coco Crush line, each piece is inspired by the maison’s famous quilting, with Blackpink’s Jennie shining alongside a male model who is also adorned with the pieces. The maison’s holiday campaign featured male models wearing Coco Crush too and right now, what could be more romantic than jewellery designed to be shared?Inside Chanel’s star-studded cruise fashion show in Los Angeles
Tufnell believes we’re just at the beginning of genderless jewellery – with more fluidity, creativity and “rule breaking” to come. Especially, she says, since fashion has been going in this direction for some time. “In terms of the future of genderless jewellery, we are really at the beginning of the journey, and I think in 2023 genderless jewellery will see a real take-off as we have seen with the ready-to-wear industry,” she says.
“We can definitely see brands’ collections developing in terms of design and size range to accommodate both men and women. I think we will see more and more brands predominantly known as a women’s brand, either launch a men’s collection or develop some of their existing collection to cater to both genders.”
Victoria Lampley, founder of The Stax, a jewellery advisory and consultancy, says this societal shift around gender – albeit an ongoing one – is one she sees playing out in jewellery too.
“On an optimistic day, I like to think times have really changed for the better and that gender normative principles are going to [be left by] the wayside to make way for a far more open-minded and liberated society,” she says. “This relates to jewellery insofar that far more people no longer feel relegated to ‘pink for girls’, ‘blue for boys’, dainty jewels for women, and bulky chains for men. Instead your gender is your choice and genderless jewellery is definitely a result of the sociopolitical climate we’re in, where the gender demarcations are constantly evolving – and amen to that.”
Inside California-chic Palihouse West Hollywood hotel in Los Angeles
While Lampley considers all jewellery brands to be genderless, she says there are some particular pieces that have, and will always suit, both men and women’s tastes, including signet rings, solid gold bands, chunky chains and sentimental and protective pendants such as St Christopher, Evil Eyes, Hamsa, Cross and the Star of David.As for brands to look for, some of Lampley’s (many) favourites include Natalia Pas and Richard Ogden for signet rings, Lauren Rubinski for chunky chains and Beck jewels for bands.
People who wear jewellery well, no matter what their gender, is something Lampley – a true jewellery magpie with an incredibly well-honed eye – always notices. “I’m always inspired by my surroundings: an older couple sitting at a restaurant and the cufflinks he wears, or the thick mariner link bracelet a WASP-y woman is effortlessly wearing while rushing by me in line at a coffee shop, or watching someone decked in the perfect mix of prints and patterns bounding down the street with a stack of arm candy on – from coloured beaded bracelets, stacked with a tennis bracelet or a great gold bangle,” she says.
“A woman out at a restaurant with the perfect cuff on, minimalist without feeling contrived. Or watching a younger guy in London jet by with the perfect ear piercings and chunky silver ring on his finger. No matter the gender, some people just have that “je ne sais quoi” and wear it well, and boy I love them for it.”
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